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Science | whitening effect cosmetics raw material — arbutin Part one

In February 2023, the European Union Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS) issued a final opinion on the safety of α-arbutin and β-arbutin in cosmetics, and the whitening effect of the star ingredient arbutin once again caused concern in the industry. 

 What is arbutin?

Arbutin (Arbutin), also known as arbutin, chemical name 4-hydroxyphenyl-D-glucopyranoside, relative molecular weight is 272.25, is a natural glycoside from green plants, many freeze-drying plants, such as wheat, pear, rhododendraceae bear fruit rich in solves, white aciculate crystals or powder, Soluble in hot water, methanol, ethanol and propylene glycol, propylene glycol, insoluble in ether, chloroform, petroleum ether and other solvents.

structure

Arbutin can be divided into α type and β type according to different structure. α-arbutin is chemically called 4-hydroxyphenyl-α-D-glucopyranoside, and β-arbutin is chemically called 4-hydroxyphenyl-β-D-glucopyranoside. Alpha-arbutin is a differential isomer of β-arbutin, and its glucoside bond is spatially opposite to that of β-arbutin (see figure).

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Post time: Feb-22-2024