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Science | whitening effect cosmetics raw material — arbutin Part Three

Natural plant extraction method

This method mainly uses plant leaves of the genus Ursi as raw materials, and uses organic solvent extraction, extraction, column chromatography and other separation and purification methods to obtain arbutin extract. As early as 1930, it was reported that arbutin is contained in the leaves of rock cabbage. Subsequent studies have confirmed that arbutin is also found in the leaves of black rice tree, bilberry, bearberry and pear tree. glycosides. 

Since the content of arbutin in plants is very low, the extraction process is relatively complex, and the purity of the extract is not high, so with the development of other preparation methods, the plant extraction method has gradually lost its competitive advantage.

Plant tissue culture

The plant tissue culture method utilizes the glycosylation ability of plant cells to convert hydroquinone into arbutin. Compared with plant extraction methods, the efficiency of obtaining arbutin using plant tissue culture methods is much higher. When applying this method, selecting an efficient plant tissue culture medium and determining appropriate culture conditions are key.

The raw materials used in the plant tissue culture method are clean, the conversion rate is high, and the production is pollution-free. However, the production cycle is long, the separation and purification is complicated, and the industrial development is relatively immature. Further understanding the growth mechanism of plant cells, clarifying the key influencing factors of the synthesis process, shortening the production cycle, and improving yield are the key issues that need to be solved in the application of this method.

arbutin

Enzyme synthesis method

The enzyme synthesis method mainly uses glycosyltransferase or glycosidase as a catalyst to catalyze glycosyl transfer and reverse hydrolysis reactions to synthesize glycosides, that is, arbutin is obtained from hydroquinone and glucose under the catalysis of glycosidase.

The enzyme synthesis method has a simple process, high synthesis efficiency, and very optimistic development prospects. With in-depth research on this method in recent years, more and more suitable zymogens have been discovered, and the synthesis rate of arbutin is also getting higher and higher. It is believed that this method will be one of the main research directions for the synthesis of arbutin in the future. one.

Chemical synthesis

Generally, chemical synthesis of arbutin uses glucose and hydroquinone as raw materials. After the two are appropriately protected, they undergo a glycosidation reaction and then remove the protecting group. The chemical synthesis method has become the most important method for preparing arbutin due to its advantages of better synthetic product quality and lower production cost, and has achieved industrial production at home and abroad.

At present, in China, anhydrous glucose is generally used as raw material, and β-arbutin is produced through acylation protection, catalytic condensation, and alkaline hydrolysis. With the continuous development of synthesis technology, in recent years, the steps for domestic synthesis of arbutin have been gradually simplified, the synthesis rate has been continuously improved, and the quality has reached the international advanced level. However, due to the poor stereoselectivity of the product in chemical synthesis, more in-depth research is still needed to find an efficient and specific chemical synthesis method for preparing α-arbutin.

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The safety of arbutin

Because hydroquinone has the effect of inhibiting tyrosinase, it was used in early anti-freckle and whitening cosmetics to reduce skin pigmentation. Later studies found that hydroquinone has the risk of causing exogenous ochronosis and vitiligo, as well as sensitization and carcinogenesis. Potential risks, it is listed as a banned component of cosmetics in my country. Arbutin is also a tyrosinase inhibitor and a substitute for hydroquinone. Under conditions such as low pH value, high temperature, and ultraviolet irradiation, arbutin may be converted into hydroquinone under the action of skin microorganisms or glucosidase, resulting in potential risks of sensitization, genotoxicity, or carcinogenesis. Therefore, the safety research of arbutin has always attracted industry attention.

In February 2023, SCCS issued its final opinion on the safety of α-arbutin and β-arbutin in cosmetics (SCCS/1642/22), with the following conclusions

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Post time: Feb-23-2024